Can I back the Slider studs out to gain more adjustment?
Can I dyno my bike with the slider clutch installed?
Can I leave from an idle with a Slider clutch?
We do not recommend this practice, it is very abusive to the clutch and other components. You will likely have very poor reaction times, the clutch will hit very hard, and possibly break fibers or other parts.
Best results are achieved by staging the bike about 200-400 RPM below the stall speed of the clutch. This will allow the pressure plate to be closer to the clutch pack so your reaction time can be much better and engage much smoother.
Can I ride my MTC slider equipped bike around the pits or back from a run?
Can my 6mm slider studs be upgraded to 8mm studs?
Some of the applications can be upgraded, but others cannot be upgraded.
MTC will sell the parts to the do it yourselfers or will perform the upgrade for a nominal fee, plus the cost of parts.
The KZ, J-model, GPZ, ZX-11, Suzuki GS, and Hayabusa can all be upgraded to the larger studs, but the GSXR 1000/1100 and ZX-12 cannot. The reason for this is the lack of clearance inside the inner hub for the larger studs and locknuts.
Please contact us for information on what parts you’ll need to send for the upgrade.
Doesn't adding weight to the arms and readjusting the stall speed cancel each other out?
How can I tell which slider springs I have?
A Slider Clutch comes standard with Regular Stall Springs, unless otherwise specified by the customer. The wire diameter is the quickest way to determine which springs are in your hat without disassembling the hat.
- Regular Stall Springs: 0.113” wire diameter
- Medium Stall Springs: 0.092” wire diameter
- High Stall Springs: 0.120” wire diameter.
- High Stall springs can also be identified by the red paint on them.
How critical is basket endplay on a slider?
Having the correct basket endplay is very important. The nature of a slider ties the pressure plate to the outer basket, which clamps the clutch pack.
If there is too much endplay, as the pressure plate pushes in on the clutch pack, the hat pulls the basket outward to remove all the slop before the clutch fully engages.
Excessive endplay will result in erratic slider operation at the very least.
Incorrect endplay can also result in damage to the clutch and/or engine.
Basket endplay should be between .003″ and .006″. That figure is the amount which the basket can move straight in and out. If there isn’t enough basket endplay, the inner hub will bind up and not rotate freely.
How do I check my basket endplay?
The best method to check the endplay is to use a dial indicator and magnetic base.
- Attach the magnetic base to the chassis and touch the tip of the indicator to the surface of the black basket where the hat sits.
- You will want to measure it with the clutch plates removed but leave the nut on the input shaft tight.
- Pulling straight in and out on the outer clutch basket verifying that the basket moves about .003-.006″.
- Rocking the basket will result in a false reading, be sure the basket is moving parallel to the input shaft.
Excessive endplay can be corrected by surfacing the center bushing that the basket rotates on. Do not attempt to cut the bushing in a lathe, it must be surface ground.
MTC recommends that you only take off 1/2 of what your measurements tell you, that way you don’t end up with a bushing you can’t use.
How do I adjust the air gap on my slider?
How do I adjust the stall speed of my MTC slider clutch?